Explorations in Australia, John Forrest: DISAPPOINTED EXPEDITIONS.
DISAPPOINTED EXPEDITIONS.
29th.
Started in company with Tommy and Jemmy to explore the country eastward,
leaving the party to take off the horses' shoes for their relief.
Travelling in an easterly direction for eight miles over sandy soil and
spinifex, we reached the summit of a high hill, supposed by Jemmy to be
Noondie, which I named Mount Alexander, from which we saw another range
about eleven miles distant, bearing North 82 degrees 15 minutes East
magnetic, to which we proceeded, and found water in some granite rocks.
None of these hills, however, agreed with the description given by Jemmy;
and the expectations were at an end that he would succeed in showing us
the spot where the remains of white men were. Returning to camp, seven
miles, bivouacked on a grassy flat, without water or food.
30th. (Sunday).
Started at dawn, with the saddles and rugs on our backs, in search of the
horses, and, after travelling a mile and a half on their tracks, found
them at a small water-hole passed by us yesterday. Saddled up and reached
camp at eleven o'clock, and found all well. Yesterday morning the dogs
caught an emu, off which we made a first-rate breakfast, not having had
anything to eat since the previous morning. Barometer 28.44.
A DIFFICULTY WITH THE NATIVES.
31st.
Started this morning in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy in search of
natives, leaving Mr. Hamersley in charge, with instructions to proceed
eastward about twenty-two miles, to where I found water on the 29th.
After starting the party we steered in a South-South-East direction
towards a high range of hills, which I named Mount Bivou, about twelve
miles distant. To the westward of the range we found a fine water-hole in
some granite rocks, where we rested an hour to allow the horses to feed.
Continuing in about the same direction for five miles, we ascended a
rough range to have a view of the country. We descried a large fire to
the westward seven miles, towards which we proceeded, in the hope of
finding natives. When we were within half a mile we could hear hallooing
and shouting; and it was very evident there was a great muster (certainly
not less than 100) of natives, corrobberying, making a dreadful noise,
the dogs joining in chorus. Having stripped Jemmy, I told him to go and
speak to them, which he started to do in very good spirits. He soon
beckoned us to follow, and asked us to keep close behind him, as the
natives were what he called like "sheep flock." He appeared very nervous,
trembling from head to foot. After reassuring him, we tied up our horses,
and advanced through the thicket towards them. When getting in sight of
them, Jemmy commenced cooeying, and was answered by the natives; after
which he advanced and showed himself. As soon as they saw him, the
bloodthirsty villains rushed at him, and threw three dowaks, which he
luckily dodged; when fortunately one of the natives recognized him
(having seen Jemmy at Mount Elain when a little boy), and called to the
others not to harm him. Seeing Jemmy running towards the horses, Mr.
Monger and I thought it was time to retire, as we saw the mistake we had
made in leaving the horses. The thickets being dense, we had difficulty
in finding the horses quickly. On reaching them Mr. Monger found he had
dropped his revolver. Had not Jemmy been recognized, I feel sure we
should have had bloodshed, and might probably have lost our lives.
Mounting the horses, we advanced towards the natives, and had a short
talk with one of them who came to speak to Jemmy. There was a guard of
eight natives, with spears stripped, and dowaks in readiness, should we
prove hostile. Although I assured them we were friends, and asked them to
put down their spears, they took no notice of what was said. One native
told us not to sleep here, but to go away and not return, or the natives
would kill and eat us, after which he turned away as if he did not wish
to have any more words with us. It being now dark, we took his advice,
and retreated towards where we had dinner, five miles off. Camped in a
thicket without water, and tied up our horses, keeping watch all night.
June 1st.
At daybreak saddled up our tired and hungry horses, and proceeded to
where we had dinner yesterday. After giving our horses two hours' grazing
and having had breakfast, started back towards the natives' camp, as I
wished to question them respecting the reported death of white men in
this neighbourhood. When we approached the natives' bivouac, we saw where
they had been following up our tracks in every direction, and Jemmy found
the place where they had picked up Mr. Monger's revolver. While Jemmy was
away looking for the revolver, Mr. Monger saw two natives following up
our trail, and within fifty yards of us. We both wheeled round and had
our guns in readiness, but soon perceived they were the same as were
friendly last night, and I called Jemmy to speak to them. At my request
they went and brought us Mr. Monger's revolver, which they stated they
had been warming near the fire! Fortunately for them, it did not go off.
On being questioned by Jemmy, they stated that the place Noondie (where
Jemmy stated he heard the remains of the white men were) was two days'
journey North-West from this spot; that there were the remains of horses,
but not of men, and they volunteered to show us the spot. Being now 1
p.m., and having to meet the party to-night at a place about twenty-three
miles distant, we started at once, leaving the natives, who did not wish
to move to-day, but who apparently sincerely promised to come to our camp
to-morrow. Reached camp at the spot arranged an hour after dark, and
found all well.
BIVOUACKING.
2nd.
Rested our horses at the place, which I called the Two-spring Bivouac,
there being two small springs here. Re-stuffed with grass all the
pack-saddles, as some of the horses were getting sore backs. By meridian
altitude of sun found the camp to be in south latitude 28 degrees 51
minutes 45 seconds, and in longitude about 120 degrees 30 minutes east. I
was very much annoyed at the natives not putting in appearance as
promised.
3rd.
No sign of the natives this morning. I decided to steer in the direction
pointed out by them, and travelling about North 306 degrees East magnetic
for fifteen miles, we found water in some granite rocks, with very good
feed around, cypress and acacia thickets, light red loamy soil, destitute
of grass.
4th.
Steering in about West-North-West direction for sixteen miles, the first
six of which were studded with granite rocks, good feed around them,
after which through poor sandy country, covered with spinifex. We
bivouacked in a thicket without water or feed, and tied up our horses.
Saw a natives' fire, but was unable to get near it. Barometer 28.52;
fine.
5th.
After travelling in a northerly direction for seven miles without finding
water, and without
seeing any hill answering the description given by Jemmy, I struck about
east for sixteen miles, and camped at a fine spring near some granite
rocks, with splendid feed around them. This is the first good spring
since leaving the settled districts. At 8 p.m., barometer 28.44;
thermometer 72 degrees.
6th (Sunday).
Rested at camp, which I called Depot Spring, and found to be in south
latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes 34 seconds by meridian altitude of sun.
Barometer at 8 a.m. 28.38; thermometer 57 degrees; at 5 p.m., barometer
28.30; thermometer 77 degrees.
7th.
Started this morning, in company with Mr. Hamersley and Jemmy, to explore
the country to the northward, where we had seen a peaked hill. Went in
that direction about thirty miles, the first twenty of which were studded
with granite rocks, with fine feed around them. At twenty-seven miles
crossed a salt marsh, about one mile wide, and, continuing three miles
farther, reached the peaked hill, which was composed of granite, capped
with immense blocks, giving it a very remarkable appearance. Bivouacked
on North-West side of hill, at a small water-hole.
8th.
This morning, after saddling up, we ascended the conical hill (which I
named Mount Holmes) and took a round of angles from it, after which we
struck North 81 degrees East magnetic to a granite range about eight
miles distant, where we found two fine water-holes, and rested an hour.
Thence in about a South-South-East direction for twelve miles, we
bivouacked without water on a small patch of feed. The day was very fine,
and the rainy appearance cleared off, much to our grief.
9th.
At daybreak, no sound of horses' bells, and anticipating they had made
off in search of water, we put our saddles, guns, and rugs on our backs,
and started on their tracks. After following the tracks for nine miles we
came to a water-hole and had breakfast; afterwards we succeeded in
overtaking the horses in a grassy flat, about thirteen miles
South-South-East from our last night's bivouac. The last few miles our
troublesome load became very awkward and heavy. One of the horses had
broken his hobbles. Continuing in about the same course for six miles, we
struck about West-South-West for ten miles, and reached camp, where we
found all well, at 6 p.m. Barometer 28.64; cloudy.
AN OLD NATIVE.
10th.
Started again this morning in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to
explore the country to the eastward, leaving Mr. Hamersley to shift the
party to our bivouac of the 2nd instant, about twenty-four miles
South-East from here. After travelling East-North-East for six miles, we
came upon a very old native at a fire in the thicket. Jemmy could not
understand what he said, but he thought that he meant that there were a
number of armed natives about. He was very frightened, howled the whole
time we stayed, and was apparently in his dotage, hardly able to walk.
Continuing our journey, we camped at a small water-hole in some granite
rocks, with good feed around them, about sixteen miles East-North-East
from Depot Spring.
11th.
Started at sunrise, and steered about East-North-East over
lightly-grassed country; and on our way came upon a middle-aged native
with two small children. We were within twenty yards of him before he saw
us. He appeared very frightened, and trembled from head to foot. Jemmy
could understand this native a little, and ascertained from him that he
had never seen or heard anything about white men or horses being killed
or having died in this vicinity. Did not know any place named Noondie;
but pointed to water a little way eastward. Jemmy then asked him all
manner of questions, but to no purpose, as he stated he knew nothing
about the business. Jemmy asked him if he had ever heard of any horses
being eaten; he answered No, but that the natives had just eaten his
brother! I have no doubt parents have great difficulty in saving their
children from these inhuman wretches. Then the old man tried to cry, and
ended by saying he had two women at his hut, a little westward. After
travelling ten miles from our last night's bivouac, and not finding
water, we struck North 204 degrees East magnetic for about twenty miles,
through scrubby thickets, without feed, and arrived at the bivouac of the
2nd, where the party will meet us to-morrow. Reached the water at the Two
Springs half an hour after dark.
12th.
Explored the country around camp in search of a better place for feed,
but could not find water. Mr. Hamersley and party joined us at 4 p.m.,
all well. Tommy shot a red kangaroo, which was a great treat, after
living so long on salt pork. Barometer 28.60; fine; cold wind from the
east all day.
13th (Sunday).
Rested at camp. Intend taking a trip to the southward to-morrow.
Barometer 28.76.
14th.
Started this morning, in company with Morgan and Jemmy, to examine the
country to the southward. Travelled in a south-westerly direction for
twenty-five miles, and camped at the spot where we had the encounter with
the natives on May 31. We found they had left, and there was no water on
the rocks. Luckily our horses had water six miles back.
MOUNT IDA.
15th.
Saddled up at daybreak, and steered about South-East towards a high range
of hills about ten miles distant. I named it Mount Ida, and from the
summit I took a round of angles with my pocket sextant. On all the hills
in this neighbourhood the local attraction is so great that the prismatic
compass is useless. Found a fine spring of water on south side of Mount
Ida, in an almost inaccessible spot. After giving the horses two hours'
rest we continued our journey North 154 degrees East magnetic for eight
miles to a granite range, where, after a diligent search, I found two
water-holes, and bivouacked, with good feed around the rocks.
16th.
Saddled up at sunrise, and steered to some trap ranges, North 124 degrees
East, about seven miles distant, from which I could see an immense lake
running as far as the eye could reach to the eastward, and westerly and
northerly, most probably joining Lake Barlee. Not being able to proceed
farther southward, on account of the lake, I steered in a northerly
direction for twenty miles, but, discovering neither feed nor water,
bivouacked in a thicket, and tied up our horses.
17th.
At dawn, found that my horse Sugar, after breaking his bridle, had made
off towards our bivouac of the 15th. Placing my saddle on Jemmy's horse,
we followed on the track for six miles, when we came to a few granite
rocks, with a little water on them, from rain that had fallen during the
night. At this place Morgan was left with the horses and our guns, while
Jemmy and I followed on Sugar's tracks, taking only a revolver with us.
After travelling on the tracks for two miles we overtook him, and with a
little trouble managed to catch him. On reaching the spot where we had
left Morgan, we found him with the three double-barrelled guns on full
cock, together with his revolver, in readiness. On being asked what was
the matter, he stated "Nothing," but he was ready to give the natives
what he called "a warm attachment." After having breakfast we steered
North-North-West for about twenty miles, and reached camp at 5 p.m., and
found all well. Rained a little during the day.
EXPLORING EASTWARD.
18th.
Having thus made an exhaustive search in the neighbourhood where Jemmy
expected to find the remains of the white men, by travelling over nearly
the whole of the country between latitude 28 degrees and 29 degrees 30
minutes south, and longitude 120 and 121 degrees east, I determined to
make the most of the little time at my disposal, and carry out the
instruction that I was to attempt to proceed as far eastward as possible.
Accordingly, after collecting the horses, steered about East-North-East
for nine miles, to a low quartz range, over tolerably grassy country, not
very dense. From this range I saw some bare granite rocks bearing about
North 120 degrees East magnetic. For these we steered, and luckily, after
travelling six miles over a plain, which in severe winters must be nearly
all under water, found a fine pool in a clay-pan, and bivouacked. There
was a little rain during the night.
19th.
The horses having strayed back on our tracks, we did not start till 12
o'clock, when the journey was continued towards the granite range seen
yesterday, about ten miles distant. We camped on west side of North, with
plenty of water from the recent rain on the granite rocks, but with very
little feed. At five miles crossed a dry stream-bed, eighteen yards wide,
sandy bottom; thickets most of the way, but not very dense.
20th (Sunday).
Rested at camp. Jemmy shot four rock kangaroos to-day. Took a round of
angles from a bare granite hill, North 50 degrees East magnetic, about
one mile from camp, which I found to be in south latitude 28 degrees 57
minutes by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and a Pegasi (Markab);
and in longitude about 120 degrees 55 minutes East. Saw a high hill
bearing North 81 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, about twenty-five
miles distant, which I named Mount Lenora; and another bearing North 67
degrees East magnetic, about twenty-five miles distant, which I named
Mount George. Intend proceeding to Mount Lenora to-morrow. Marked a small
tree (ordnance-tree of Mr. Austin) with the letter F at our bivouac.
21st.
Steering towards Mount Lenora over some tolerably grassy country, we
reached it at sundown, and, not finding any water, camped without it,
with very good feed. In south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes by meridian
altitudes of Lyrae (Vega) and Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude about
121 degrees 20 minutes East.
22nd.
After making every search in the vicinity of the bivouac for water, and
the country ahead appearing very unpromising, I decided to return ten
miles on our tracks, where we found a fine pool of water in a brook, and
camped. Tomorrow I intend taking a flying trip in search of water.
A NATIVE UP A TREE.
23rd.
Started this morning, in company with Tommy Windich, to explore the
country to the eastward for water, etc. After travelling three miles
towards Mount Lenora, saw a natives' fire bearing North-East about three
miles, to which we proceeded, and surprised a middle-aged native. Upon
seeing us he ran off shouting, and decamped with a number of his
companions, who were at a little distance. The horse I was
riding--Turpin, an old police-horse from Northam--evidently well
understood running down a native, and between us we soon overtook our
black friend and brought him to bay. We could not make him understand
anything we said; but, after looking at us a moment, and seeing no chance
of escape, he dropped his two dowaks and wooden dish, and climbed up a
small tree about twelve feet high. After securing the dowaks, I tried
every means to tempt him to come down; fired my revolver twice, and
showed him the effect it had on the tree. The report had the effect also
of frightening all the natives that were about, who no doubt made off at
a great rate. I began to climb up after him, but he pelted me with
sticks, and was more like a wild beast than a man. After discovering we
did not like to be hit, he became bolder and threw more sticks at us, and
one hitting Tommy, he was nearly shooting him, when I called on him to
desist. I then offered him a piece of damper, showing him it was good by
eating some myself and giving some to Tommy. He would not look at it, and
when I threw it close to him he dashed it away as if it was poison. The
only way of getting him down from the tree was force, and, after
considering a moment, I decided to leave him where he was. We accordingly
laid down his dowaks and dish, and bade him farewell in as kindly a
manner as possible. Continuing our course, passing Mount Lenora, we
steered North 81 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic to a table hill, which
I ascended and took a round of angles. This hill I named Mount Malcolm,
after my friend and companion, Mr. M. Hamersley. Saw a remarkable peak
bearing North 65 degrees East magnetic, distant about twenty miles,
towards which we proceeded, and at six miles came upon a small gully, in
which we found a little water, and bivouacked.
24th.
Started early this morning, and steered East-North-East for six miles to
some low stony ranges, lightly grassed; thence North 61 degrees 30
minutes East magnetic to the remarkable peak, which I named Mount Flora,
distant about nine miles from the stony ranges, ascending which, I
obtained a round of bearings and angles. Saw a high range bearing about
North 106 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic, apparently about sixteen
miles distant, towards which we travelled till after dark, searching for
feed and water on our way without success, and there bivouacked and tied
up our horses.